Sunshine Coast Birds

Birding and other wildlife experiences from the Sunshine Coast and elsewhere in Australia - and from overseas - with scribblings about travel, environmental issues, kayaking, hiking and camping.

Friday, 4 September 2026

Around Australia 2026 Part 10 – Nullarbor Plain, South Australia

Naretha Bluebonnet

After leaving Cape Arid on the WA South Coast we overnighted again in Esperance before tackling the long drive across the Nullarbor. We camped overnight at Ten Mile Rocks, 80 km east of Norseman, then behind the Cocklebiddy Roadhouse before crossing the South Australia border. We spent our first night in that state camped at Border Village. Fuel there was 3.32/litre – by the far the highest diesel cost of the trip to date. The mallee around the village (below) was green and vibrant following local rain with wildflowers everywhere.


Along with loads of White-fronted Honeyeaters.


White-fronted Honeyeater

Causing them grief were a pair of Australian Hobbies.


Australian Hobby

Then it was time to tackle the Nullarbor Wilderness Protection Area. We turned off the Eyre Highway on Koonalba Road, negotiating 15 km of rough (for the caravan at least) road before reaching the historic and quaint Koonalba Homestead for a pleasant 2-night stay.

Nullarbor Plain meets Great Australian Bight

Bumpy road to Koonalba

Koonalba Homestead

Koonalba sunrise

We drove a further 6 km north to check out the Koonalba Cave (below) on our first morning.


Chief target at Koonalba was a Nullarbor endemic, Naretha Bluebonnet. It wasn't until leaving on our last morning that I finally connected with 4 birds, 5.5 km south of the homestead. They were a sight for sore eyes.


Naretha Bluebonnet (above & below)

I saw the other Nullarbor endemic, Nullarbor Quail-thrush – single birds 2 km and 3.5 km north of the homestead. Ground Cuckoo-shrike was regular about our camp; it was interesting to note 5 or 6 birds roosting together in the same tree and position each night.


Ground Cuckoo-shrike roosting

Ground Cuckoo-shrike

Shingleback (below) was commonplace.


So were the burrows of Southern Hairy-nosed Wombats ( below)  although no wombats were seen.


Rabbits were abundant, explaining the high density of Wedge-tailed Eagles.


Wedge-tailed Eagle

Red-backed Kingfisher and Mulga Parrot put in appearances around the old homestead buildings.


Mulga Parrot

Red-backed Kingfisher

We moved further east to Nullarbor Roadhouse for an overnight stay. Here I focused on 6.5 km of track heading north from the old Eyre Highway, just east of the roadhouse, which I had visited previously. I found 2 more Nullarbor Quail-thrush in the afternoon, and another 6 the next morning. A couple finally allowed themselves to be photographed, albeit poor images. Plenty of Crimson Chats were around.


Nullarbor Quail-thrush female & (below) male

Dingo was nice to encounter on the track. Another dingo hung about the roadhouse looking for food scraps.


Dingo

Slender-billed Thornbill, Yellow-rumped Thornbill and Brown Songlark were common around both the roadhouse and Koonalba. We continued eastwards from the roadhouse to overnight in the Penong Caravan Park.

Brown Songlark

Yellow-rumped Thornbill