I had been to Iron Range twice previously but long ago: in February 1975 (for 11 days) and in November 1982 (for 8 days, a Queensland Museum trip with curator Glen Ingram), so was keen to revisit this iconic biodiversity hotspot in the far north of Cape York. We decided to take the easy option and fly in from Cairns for a week-long stay in September 2021 at Portland House in the village of Portland Roads, 22km north of the main rainforest areas of Iron Range.
We flew to Lockhart River and were met by our hosts at the airport with a 4WD hire vehicle for the week. Portland House organises the accommodation/flight/vehicle package. Whether you’re a large group or a single person, you have the whole house to yourself as part of the package. You can buy stores at Lockhart River and prepare your own meals or buy excellent meals at the restaurant next door, owned by the same people. We opted to make our own breakfasts and lunches, with a mix for evening meals. The operators can order in any alcohol supplies you need. The views from the sprawling verandahs over the sea (above) and of the beach and mangroves from the boat ramp up the road (below) are quite something.
The first morning we visited nearby Chili Beach and its busy camping ground. More fine coastal scenery here (below) but none of the Iron Range specialties were encountered.
The first of those was not far from the house when we got back: an immature male Red-cheeked Parrot (below) perched up high.
I tracked down an active Fawn-breasted Bowerbird bower found by Dominic Chaplin by mangroves about 500m from Portland House. I waited 40 minutes before the bird turned up, putting on a fine show of rearranging the bower and the large green berries in place for show.
Around Portland House, the newly split Graceful (from Cryptic) Honeyeater was common in the gardens.
Olive-backed Sunbirds were building a nest on the verandah.
Early most mornings for the rest of the week I drove 30 minutes to reach the rainforest, birded several kilometres of road or track and returned to Portland House around lunchtime. Traffic on the roads was horrendously busy compared to previous visits as indicated by this sign, although early mornings were usually okay.
The Iron Range specialties were out and about from the start. The first was a White-faced Robin making a roadside appearance soon after dawn; several were seen during the week but usually deep in the undergrowth.
Eclectus Parrots (male below) flew overhead occasionally but I only ever saw them perched briefly and distantly.
A flock of Sulphur-crested Cockatoos were unimpressed by a white phase Grey Goshawk.
We saw three Palm Cockatoos on the first morning in the forest but managed just poor views in very windy conditions. An immature Palm Cockatoo showed a little better the next day but surprisingly these were the only encounters with the species.
Quite a few more Red-cheeked Parrots (like the adult male below) were seen but both Eclectus Parrot and especially Palm Cockatoo were much less common than during earlier visits.
As the days unfolded, the target list shrunk. Green-backed Honeyeater was encountered more easily that I recalled from earlier trips and several parties were seen.
Most observations were centred on the area around the Gordon Creek, Rainforest and Cook’s Hut camping grounds in Kutini-Payamu National Park. An old hut at the latter site was my shelter during earlier visits to Iron Range. Gordon Creek and the Claudie River (below) were in full flow and the countryside was unusually green for this time of year, having had quite a bit of dry season rain.
Some differences from earlier visits that were later in the wet season were stark. Species like Northern Scrub-Robin and Yellow-billed Kingfisher were a good deal less vocal, while Magnificent Riflebird this time seemed to be everywhere. A male was regularly at its display perch at the Cook’s Hut camping ground, putting on a fine show (below and fist image in this post).
The 5km Old Coen walking track linking the Rainforest Camp to Portland Road was productive, especially the first 2km. Along here I tracked down a Black-eared Catbird, having heard one the previous day on the main road but failing to see it. These were the only two records of the species for the week.
Also along the Old Coen track I found a co-operative pair of Yellow-legged Flycatchers (below) in the rainforest canopy. White-eared Monarchs and Yellow-breasted Boatbills were about.
Around the Rainforest Camp I spotted a nice pair of Northern Scrub-Robins, although the birds were scarcely calling and getting these less than adequate images took a deal of patience.
Trumpet Manucode was another that was not as vocal as I recalled and it took a while to find a couple, again along the Old Coen track.
Frill-necked Monarch was spotted in several places, including the Rainforest and Cook’s Hut camps.
Tawny-breasted Honeyeater was one of the more plentiful specialties.
One day I left the house in the afternoon to visit the Mango Farm between Portland Road and Lockhart River. Here I saw a large Saltwater Crocodile. A flock of about 20 whistling-ducks flushed and quickly disappeared before I could get on to them, but the first couple had pale bellies and were quite likely Spotted Whistling-Ducks. Lemon-bellied Flycatcher (below) was here.
At the sewage treatment works near Lockhart River, a few Pied Herons were about but not the hoped for whistling-ducks.
Nearby at Quintell beach, the unusual rock formations on the beach are an eye-catcher.
On this day I opted for an evening excursion. As the sun set at the Rainforest Camp, the forest was lit up by countless fireflies and I remembered what a sight they were on earlier visits. A chorus of good numbers of Australian Wood-Frogs resounded from the banks of the nearby Claudie River.
It wasn’t long before I heard the characteristic call of the marmoratus race of Marbled Frogmouth and two or three were present around the camping ground, with one showing nicely.
Using my thermal monocular, I found a couple of Cape York Melomys (below) as well as a Giant White-tailed Rat and a Cape York Rat (Rattus leucops).
Spotlighting along the road back to Portland Roads was not particularly productive, with Spectacled Flying-Fox )above) in the rainforest and several Large-tailed Nightjars (below) lushed.
I had previously photographed Chestnut-breasted Cuckoo and White-streaked Honeyeater so did not spend time chasing these Cape York specialties. The only potential target that I failed to see or photoghaph was Yellow-billed Kingfisher. (It was too early in the season for two others: Black-winged Monarch and Papuan Pitta.) I frustratingly failed to see cuscus although others were reporting them, especially at Cook’s Hut Camp; I had seen both Spotted Cuscus and the Southern Common (Grey) Cuscus during previous visits.
I photographed the northern races of Fairy Gerygone (personata - above) and Tropical Scrubwren (minimus - below), both of which were common.
The distinctive race of Australian Brush-turkey (purpurceicollis) was also plentiful.
As was the ever photogenic Shining Flycatcher.
Relaxing in the beautiful tropical surroundings at Portland House was one of the highlights of the trip. Among the creatures about the house were plenty of Robust or Six-toothed Skinks (Carlia sexdentata).
White-lipped Tree-Frogs (below) were ever present. We were serenaded by constantly calling Large-tailed Nightjars and the occasional Papuan Frogmouth at night.
I didn't tire of the views from Portland Road during my frequent drives.
I was back at Chili Beach on the last morning and surprised to find a male Satin Flycatcher - a little-recorded transient migrant in far North Queensland.
We finished off our stay on the last night with an excellent seafood platter dinner at the restaurant.
