Sunshine Coast Birds

Birding and other wildlife experiences from the Sunshine Coast and elsewhere in Australia - and from overseas - with scribblings about travel, environmental issues, kayaking, hiking and camping.

Sunday, 20 July 2025

South-East Asia Part 2 - Mt Kerinci in central west Sumatra

 

Schneider's Pitta

After our successful foray to the Mentawai Islands off the West Sumatra coast, we were picked up at our hotel in Padang for the next chapter of this journey – a 10-day trip to the central west mountains of the famed Mt Kerinci area. These mountains host the lion's share of Sumatra's endemic birds so is top-of-mind for visiting birders.

A pleasant if sometimes hairy 7-hour drive south through inland footfalls took us to the town of Kersik Tua and our hotel, Swarga Lodge. This was a handy base from which to explore the trails of Kerinci Seblat National Park around the base of Mt Kerinci, South-East Asia's largest volcanic peak which dominates the landscape in spectacular form. This trip was organised by Wild Sumatra, whose services I can highly recommend.

Mt Kerinci (above and below)

I was assigned a guide, Sandra, for the whole of the visit to the Kerinci region. He was a hard young worker and keen to please, with excellent eyes and ears. Sandra was especially adept at tracking down specialties and skulkers, though a little rusty on non-target species. We left Swarga Lodge a night earlier than planned because the steep staircase to the attic bedroom was daunting, and wedding ceremonies at a venue below the hotel featured extremely loud music and singing which didn't end until the early morning hours.

Guide Sandra

I birded only until lunchtime most days (not wanting to leave my non-birding partner alone all day) but this had little or no impact on our birding success. The first morning saw us at the trail entrance at 1600m. Shining Whistling-Thrush was the first endemic and it was common wherever we went.


Shiny Whistling-Thrush

That was followed soon after by a female Sumatran Niltava - the only one we saw on the trip.


Sumatran Niltava

Some distance up the track we saw our first Sumatran (Brown-winged) Whistling-Thrush. This is supposedly one of the more difficult endemics but we saw it several times.


Sumatran Whistling-Thrush

We had calling Pygmy Cupwing and several Eye-browed Wren-Babblers in view, including a couple of juveniles.

Eye-browed Wren-Babbler juvenile

I was happy to connect with a pair of beautiful Sumatran Trogons close to the trail.


Sumatran Trogon

Rusty-breasted Wren-Babbler was vocal and reasonably approachable at all elevations on Mt Kerinci.


Rusty Wren-Babbler


Late in the morning I had a female Sumatran (Bronze-tailed) Peacock-Pheasant on the trail. A male was seen the next day. We heard this species frequently. Sumatran Flowerpecker and Sumatran Green-Pigeon were seen briefly.


Sumatran Peacock-Pheasant

The next morning saw us going higher up to 2200m at Panorama Post. Sunda Bush-Warbler showed well during the ascent. Less co-operative was Sumatran Cochoa. Two individuals called loudly at different sites but despite an intensive effort, a brief flight view of one bird was all we managed.


Sunda Bush-Warbler

Sumatran Wren-Babbler (Rimator) was calling loudly in small numbers and it took a while to eventually snare a brief view of a bird. Mammals included Niobe Ground-Squirrel and Sumatran Mountain Squirrel. Red-billed Partridge can be notoriously difficult to see but Sandra was good at finding these skulkers and we saw them on three occasions, sometimes very well, with others heard. High up the mountain, Sumatran Shortwing was calling commonly and seen a couple of times.


Niobe Ground-Squirrel

Sumatran Mountain-Squirrel

We left at 3.30am on our third morning for a bit of night work. We had 3 or 4 Sumatran Frogmouths calling close to the trail entrance but frustratingly didn't manage to see one. Salvadori's Nightjar was flying about but there was not a sniff of Wallace's Scops-Owl. The owl and Salvadori's Pheasant were the only two Kerinci area specialties that I had a reasonable chance of connecting with but failed to do so; neither had been encountered by other birders for several weeks.


Schneider's Pitta

The fourth and final morning at Mt Kerinci saw us again on the lower track. This time the reward was excellent - close-up views of two separate Schneider's Pittas. A female and an immature male showed nicely at different sites. This is one of Sumatra's most sought-after endemics and one that is easy to miss - a fitting end to our time on the mountain.




Saturday, 19 July 2025

South-East Asia 2025: Part 1 – Siporo Island off West Sumatra

 

Mentawai Scops-Owl

Our 7-week trip to Sumatra in Indonesia and Thailand kicked off with a visit to the delightful island of Siporo in the Mentawai island chain, 150km west of the Sumatra coast, on May 30, 2025. We travelled to Jakarta for a couple of days before flying to the bustling West Sumatran city of Pedang for a bit of sight-seeing. From there it is a 4-hour ferry ride to Siporo. Our coastal West Sumatra visit was capably organised by Wild West Sumatra.


Markets in Pedang

The Mentawais are known for their decent selection of endemic bird and mammal species and subspecies. Quite a few distinctive taxa await elevation to species status. Our package included a driver and vehicle for two mornings and a nocturnal excursion. The driver, Hen, could not speak English but knew where to go for the birds, and all endemic species and subspecies were seen without difficulty.


Driver Hen

That started off with a 20-minute drive to a forest patch on the first night. Mentawai Scops-Owl was calling and one was seen in flight. Eventually another landed close by and a total of 7-8 birds were heard. The other avian target – Sunda Frogmouth – is not a Mentawai specialty but is a potential split, and a species I'd not seen anyway. We saw one and heard 5-6 calling - both nightbirds are not uncommon. The rarely encountered Mentawai Flying-Squirrel was a welcome addition for the evening.


Mentawai Scops-Owl

Our accommodation was the Crows Nest Mentawai Homestay, nicely located right on the beach at the far end of the island's main town, Tuapajat, where the ferry lands. Accommodation was basic but rooms were large, clean and air-conditioned.


Crows Nest Mentawai Homestay

Beach at Crows Nest

 The manager/cook here, Ica, was marvellous, serving some of the best food of the trip, while no requests were too much trouble.


Cook Ica

The first morning I was out with Hen at dawn. I cleaned up all but one of the endemic species and subspecies within three hours. In addition to the scops-owl, Barusan Cuckoo-Dove and Mentawai Malkhoa are the other two regional endemic species; although the cuckoo-dove was around in small numbers, just one malkhoa was seen.


Barusan Cuckoo-Dove

Mentawai Malkhoa

Those endemic taxa awaiting elevation to species level include the distinctive Mentawai population of Olive-winged Bulbul with its pale eye, which has yet to be afforded even subspecific status.


Olive-winged Bulbul on Siporo

The local subspecies of Hair-crested Drongo looks and sounds nothing like that species. The regional subspecies of Ashy Drongo, Asian Glossy Starling and Thick-billed Green-Pigeon are up for promotion. The sole endemic missed on Day One, the Crested Serpent-Eagle - with the Siporo population a potential split from equally distinctive birds on other Mentawai islands - was seen on my second morning out with Hen.


Crested (Siporo) Serpent-Eagle

Asian Glossy Starling, Siporo

Even better on Day Two, a single Silvery Wood-Pigeon was found among a flock of 70+ Pied Imperial-Pigeons feeding in a large fig tree behind a village on Siporo's north-west coast. The distinctive colouration and other features of this bird were seen several times but no photograph unfortunately, before it disappeared as pigeons came and went. I had not expected to encounter this species as although it once occurred locally, it has been very rare in the region for many years. However, there are a couple of recent records, including a bird seen recently at the south end of Siberut Island, relatively not far from this site. The habit of the species of feeding with Pied Imperial-Pigeons is well-known.


Pied Imperial-Pigeon

Many more widespread species were nice to catch up on again. They included Cinnamon Bittern, Pink-necked Green-Pigeon, Blue-crowned Hanging-Parrot, Blue-rumped Parrot, Stork-billed Kingfisher and Grey-rumped Treeswift (along with plenty of Plume-toed and Black-nest Swiftlets).


Grey-rumped Treeswift

Pink-necked Green-Pigeon

Stork-billed Kingfisher

Critters aside, the visit to Siporo was well worthwhile. Its productive snorkelling, a relaxing boat trip to check out nearby islands, and sitting back and absorbing the superb and interesting surroundings did not disappoint.


Siporo satellite island

On the downside, other than two squirrels, I missed some interesting endemic mammals, which evidently have suffered from habitat loss and hunting. Most of the rainforest I visited had been heavily logged and chainsaws could be heard in many places, as is the case unfortunately in much of Indonesia. In several places, including where the owls and frogmouths were encountered, I saw the last large trees in remnant forest patches being removed.


Logging on Siporo


Sunday, 25 May 2025

Kosciuszko National Park suffers death by a thousand cuts

What follows is a transcript of my story in the current edition of The Weekend Australian newspaper. Pic of Mountain Pygmy-Possum by Bernie O’Keefe.

"Four wholemeal crackers, each with a smidgen of peanut butter and a sprinkling of crushed hazelnuts. The crackers were positioned among boulders adjoining Charlotte Pass Ski Resort in Kosciuszko National Park, southern NSW. A wildlife enthusiast, I hoped they would attract native rodents that with luck might be photographed.

Instead, I was blind-sided by a law enforcement tsunami. NSW National Parks and Wildlife Service officers in bullet-proof vests and armed police “on the warpath” to arrest me for wildlife trafficking, as the resort manager put it. I was threatened with jail and spied on by the hotel I was evicted from before being thrown out of the national park under police escort. All this and more - for trying (unsuccessfully) to spot a rat.

Meanwhile, critics say developments associated with ski resorts - along with the controversial Snowy 2.0 Hydro scheme - have had grave consequences for those rats and other wildlife, and the fragile alpine environment more generally in the state's premier national park, with more threats looming.

The primary reason for a planned five-day visit in March to Charlotte Pass was to see rare animals that make their home in boulder fields below Australia's highest mountain, among them the elusive broad-toothed rat and the critically endangered mountain pygmy possum.

Charlotte Pass Resort

Soon after I arrived at Charlotte Pass, police and NPWS personnel turned up in separate vehicles at the resort's Stillwill Hotel, where I was staying. The hotel had reported to them that I was seen with an Elliot trap. These box traps are harmless devices used to catch small animals - mainly for wildlife surveys - which are then released. I had set a trap by a resort road but caught nothing. My vehicle was searched and I was interrogated aggressively in view of startled hotel guests.

NPWS thought about this overnight. Officers returned the next morning wearing bullet-proof vests and recording equipment, telling hotel staff I faced 10 years jail for wildlife trafficking. I was out hiking at the time and they left after several hours. Later that day, not knowing I was under surveillance, I walked a short distance from the hotel to the boulder field. Hotel staff reported to NPWS that I was “carrying a blanket and bucket” that clearly was an “animal trap”, according to emails seen by Inquirer. There was no “blanket” or trap of any kind; the bucket held crackers and wooden stakes to mark their placement.

NPWS again called in police based 40 kilometres away in the town of Jindabyne. Uniformed officers clamboured over boulders under the guidance of resort manager Lachlan Blyton-Gray in search of the four crackers. I was ordered to leave the park immediately under threat of criminal charges.

My partner, who was entirely innocent of these alleged critter misdeamours, and I were bundled out of our prepaid hotel room two days early. I was fined $1,000 for having a trap and feeding an animal in a national park. No animals were trapped, disturbed, or even seen. I was unaware that feeding animals was an offence; guests at the hotel freely fed ravens and other wildlife outside its restaurant.

I also knew that researchers had left similar food out for animals in the boulder area in the past. I lost another $700 due to seized belongings and forfeited hotel bookings. My vehicle was escorted by police to Jindabyne, where finding accommodation in the failing light in the tourist off-season was challenging.

Mt Kosciuszko - view from Mt Stillwill, above Charlotte Pass

Blyton-Gray, chief operating manager of the Blyton Group, the resort's parent company, said NPWS had directed him to inform it of my movements: “NPWS is our landlord and we are obliged to do what they say.” He added: “They were on the warpath. It was full-on with bullet-proof vests and talk about jail. They were convinced this was trafficking.”

A cursory Google search by NPWS would have revealed my close association with wildlife research and conservation spanning half a century, along with my employment over several decades as a senior journalist with this masthead and other respected media outlets - an unlikely candidate for wildlife trafficker.

NSW Environment Minister Penny Sharpe, who has oversight of NPWS, defended the agency and resort in a statement: “NPWS encourages all members of the community including ski resort operators to report suspected illegal activity in the park... NPWS responded to reports you were attempting to trap and otherwise interfere with threatened species in the park without authority. Under the circumstances staff acted appropriately and professionally at all times.”

Just 400 metres from the cracker implosion, large-scale earthworks were underway by the resort to reshape ski lift operations in preparation for the winter snow season. The lifts run directly over the largest remaining population of mountain pygmy possum in NSW. The ski base adjoins boulders the animals rely on for protection against introduced predators and to seek shelter under the winter snow; the possum is the only marsupial that hibernates. Other endangered species take refuge in the boulders.

Lachlan Blyton-Gray

A dozen work vehicles were parked over boulder crevices and on sensitive alpine heath vegetation. A bulldozer went to work as a deafening din from earthworks resounded all day through the boulder field. The works were approved by NPWS, like many other resort developments in the national park, where visitors in the ski season provide substantial revenue to the agency.

The federal Environment Department says habitat loss and fragmentation in boulder fields is a key threat to the survival of the pygmy possum, which is confined to a handful of sites above the snowline in NSW and Victoria. Studies by Victorian scientists revealed 80 per cent of possum habitat was disturbed or removed by skifield developments over 22 years at Mt Buller in the Victorian Alps, although some areas are being rehabilitated.

University of Melbourne genetics expert Professor Ary Hoffmann said possum numbers crashed as a consequence of resort-connected development, with research pinpointing a huge drop in the genetic diversity of survivors. Hoffmann tells Inquirer: “It was a collapse, the most rapid loss of genetic diversity that has been documented ever in a mammal. The boulder fields favoured by resorts for ski runs are critical habitat.”

Presently in winter, a heavy grooming machine at Charlotte Pass flattens snow slopes for skiers over the boulder field. .Blyton-Gray said when works are completed, new ski lifts will be less threatening to wildlife. Special conditions will minimise environmental impacts: “There is a chairlift so we no longer need to run a grooming machine over the boulders. We've planned in great detail over the last five years for this.”

Boulders below Mt Kosciuszko

Charlotte Pass Snow Resort was fined $250,000 in 2022 when the NSW Land and Environment Court found it failed to maintain its sewage treatment plant properly, leading to 12 million litres of partially-treated sewage leaking into alpine streams. The court concluded the pollution was avoidable: “Charlotte Pass had actual knowledge that the plant's diffusers needed to be prepared.” Blyton-Gray said the leakage was a result of “mechanical failure”, adding: “We have a new plant. We don't envisage further issues.”

Critics of the $12 billion Snowy Hydro 2.0, approved by the NSW and federal governments in 2020, say the nation's biggest infrastructure projects is having serious impacts on the national park, with state agencies rubber-stamping developments inside its boundaries for one of the world's biggest pump storage projects.

According to the NSW National Parks Association, these consequences include 14 million cubic metres of excavated spoil containing asbestos and acid being dumped in the national park. Major infrastructure - including the widening and construction of more than 100 kilometres of roads and tracks - is planned for the park, destroying sensitive areas. The project requires a massive, 27-kilometre long water tunnel along with 10 kilometres of access tunnels. This will depress the natural water table, further impacting vulnerable habitats, the NPA says in a critique of the project on its website.

A NPA report last year highlighted 18 incidents of non-compliance with government regulations in the park detected in two independent environmental audits required under NSW planning laws. The Environment Protection Agency issued 10 compliance actions against Snowy 2.0 between May 2022 and January 2024. Snowy 2.0 was fined $15,000 on three occasions for discharging polluted water in park waterways.

Snowy Hydro

For the benefit of Snowy 2.0, the NSW government scrubbed a requirement in the park's management plan requiring transmission lines to be underground. Australian National University environment professor Jamie Pittock said allowing side-by-side high voltage transmission lines to pass through the park with 70-metre towers and a 140-metre wide easement was a “terrible move” that would disturb a large area in the national park unnecessarily, when underground lines could be used at an affordable higher cost.

Trail bikes above Thredbo

Pittock supports Snowy 2.0 but said it should proceed without causing the environmental damage underway or planned in the national park. Asbestos should not be allowed to “fly around all over the place” from spoil excavated for tunnels. A “notoriously potent” fish viral disease in lower storages would be pumped to a higher reservoir, from where it would flow into alpine waterways, threatening endangered fish.

Snowy 2.0 is the first time major infrastructure has proceeded at the expense of threatened habitat in a national park in Australia. Pittock said ever-expanding activities at ski resorts, such as promoting trail-biking riding and other activities during summer, are adding to pressure on the park: “It's the death of a thousand cuts as decade after decade, more of the park is lost to resorts.” Trail bike runs above Thredbo in the park criss-cross broad-toothed rat habitat.

Little Ravens are fed at Charlotte Pass Resort

NPA and other critics question whether Snowy 2.0 has the capabilities to play a meaningful role in the transition to renewable energy due to its considerable distance from major population centres and powering generators. Snowy 2.0 says the project will provide 2,200 megawatts of on-demand dispatchable energy, with enough storage to power three million homes for a week.

While declining to respond to specific environmental criticisms, Snowy 2.0 chief executive officer Dennis Barnes said: “We have many initiatives in place to mitigate and improve the park’s natural environment, which are proof points to us taking our obligation to protect the environment very seriously. Appropriately, our activities in the park are subject to strong regulatory requirements, including a high level of scrutiny and accountability. As part of our commitment, Snowy 2.0 is contributing $100 million to improve the biodiversity and recreation values of the park.”

National parks are intended to be forever: iron-clad legislative protections for wildlife and habitat. Development pressures in the 690,000-hectare Kosciuszko National Park come on top of climate change, which is forcing alpine wildlife into ever higher refuges. Habitat is shrinking due to warmer temperatures and food sources for endangered mammals, like the once abundant bogong moth, are decimated. Four crackers to spot a rat? Not so much of a worry perhaps.”

Snow Gum at Charlotte Pass

Monday, 31 March 2025

Night Parrot man in jail after bush bolthole bid

 

John Young during a visit to the Sunshine Coast

Here is the transcript of my story in today’s edition of The Australian newspaper.

One of Australia’s best-known naturalists hid in dense rainforest in North Queensland for more than a year, cutting off contact with the outside world while evading a concerted police hunt to track him down.

John Young failed to appear before the Tully Magistrates Court, near his South Mission Beach home, in August 2023 on four charges.

A spokesperson for Queensland’s Justice Department said the charges can not be revealed because to do so may potentially lead to the identification of a victim of sexual assault, a child, or any other person whose identity is subject to a publication restriction.

Young is understood to have disposed of many possessions, including his phone and computer, and closed his social media accounts.


John Young in the Mt Carbine area 

He was arrested by police from the remote Aboriginal community of Lockhart River at Iron Range near the top of Cape York Peninsula last September – 13 months after disappearing. He was charged with failure to appear in accordance with an undertaking and remanded in custody when the matter came before the Cairns Magistrates Court.

Young has been detained in the Lotus Glen Correctional Centre on the Atherton Tableland since then. He will appear before the Tully Magistrates Court next Thursday on the failure to appear charge. There are no suppression or non-publication orders relating to the charge.

The four other charges were referred to the Cairns District Court. The Queensland Department of Public Prosecution lodged an indictment listing the charges last Friday and the matter has been listed for a hearing before the court on May 14.


Rainforest around the Claudie River, Iron Range

In February 2024, five months after Young disappeared, a close associate and fellow North Queensland naturalist, Lloyd Nielsen, emailed mutual friends.

“I have not spoken to him since about May (2023) and have heard nothing from him since last August,” Nielsen said.

“However he did make contact with someone two weeks ago and he told them he was okay, that he was living in the bush, and would be there indefinitely. Where, nobody knows.”

Nielsen said Young had ditched his computer and other equipment. “The rumour up here is that there is a massive family feud taking place and (family members) have been trying to get him into court since mid-2023. So in typical fashion, John disappeared!”


Lloyd Nielsen

The Weekend Australian confirmed that Young had fallen out of favour with close family members before his disappearance.

Young attracted attention internationally in 2013 when he became the first person to photograph the critically endangered night parrot, described then as the world’s most mysterious bird.

However, his career in natural history took a battering when the Australian Wildlife Conservancy, which employed him as an ecologist, published a report in 2019 that concluded his claims to have discovered night parrots at other sites, and to have photographed the bird’s nest for the first time, were false.


Night Parrot

The Weekend Australian revealed in 2006 that Young manipulated a photograph of a common parrot to claim it was a species previously unknown to science, which he dubbed the blue-browed fig-parrot.

The newspaper revealed in 2022 that a photograph Young claimed to be the first of the nest of another critically endangered bird, the buff-breasted buttonquail, was a manipulated image of the common painted buttonquail. Young has also falsely claimed to have rediscovered the paradise parrot, the only bird species on mainland Australia that has become extinct.

However, the 71-year-old retains a large and loyal following among wildlife enthusiasts. His supporters claim he is the victim of attacks by the media seeking to undermine his reputation.

Wayne Butcher, the mayor of the Lockhart River community council, is a friend of Young who has worked with him on wildlife documentary filming and other projects in the Iron Range forests.


Buff-breasted Buttonquail

Butcher said Young avoided contact with local indigenous people, many of whom knew him well, during his absence. Locals were astonished to learn he had been hiding for so long in the area.

According to Butcher, other than whatever food supplies Young had at the start, he would have had no difficulty surviving in the forest. “There is plenty of fruit and other bush tucker and John knew all about bush tucker,” he said.

“He could fish and trap and gather plants. Plenty of water. He could climb up a 50-metre tree like a monkey. John is a real gun of a bushman. He knew that country really well and it’s huge area to hide it.”

Police are convinced Young was not assisted by anyone while in hiding. “There are no investigations relating to other persons involved,” a police spokesperson said.

Young often told friends that the rainforests of Iron Range, now largely protected in the Kutini-Payamu National Park, were his favourite retreat.

He has told naturalists that prior to the 1980s, when he was a keen collector of bird eggs, he illegally plundered many nests of the Palm Cockatoo and other rare birds that in Australia are largely or entirely restricted to the Iron Range rainforests.


John Young in Night Parrot country